Living in upper
South Carolina farm country as a child in the 1950s, I learned lots about
chickens, fried chicken and chicken and dumplings.
My mother,
father, sister and I usually ate Sunday dinner – city folk called it “lunch” –
at my paternal grandparents’ home. My dad’s only sibling, Uncle Fred, and his
wife, Frances, usually joined us. We all attended the same rural church.
If his sermon ran
a little long and people appeared restless, a preacher in those days might say,
“Y’all stay with me, now. That fried chicken will wait.” That elicited chuckles
from some Sunday morning pew-dwellers who would later pucker up to poultry. Nobody
I knew back then ate “out” on Sundays; they all headed home for Sunday dinner,
which was usually the largest meal of the week.
When I was old
enough to feed myself, Mama let me choose my Sunday piece of chicken. I always
chose a leg, because other parts seemed too prone to hide bones that might get
stuck in my throat.
Most farms kept chickens,
and Southern fried chicken was a staple. I’ve seen my grandfather chop off a
chicken’s head and seen my mother wring one’s neck. I have visual memories that
help me understand the meaning of that old expression: “running around like a
chicken with its head cut off.”
Martha Brown, a friend and a retired
nurse, told me she was eight years old when her mother let her try her hand at
“wringing.”
“We lived in town [Greer, S.C.] but had chickens,”
Martha said. “After spinning the chicken's neck around several times, I threw
down the chicken. She was alive, but quite drunk, and ran to the street. A
car hit her on busy Cannon Avenue. I can still see that car and that
chicken. That was my first and last attempt at wringing a chicken's neck.”
Martha's family ate that chicken, despite the
miserable creature’s mode of demise. A hen or rooster’s death by vehicular
chicken-side probably doesn’t rate much lower than that of a chicken meeting its
expiration date by “wringing.”
My mother’s side
of our family was known for chicken and dumplings. Mama was one of nine
children, and I guess an old chicken (or chickens) had to go a lot further when
served as the main course at a meal for that crowd. My maternal grandmother put
lots of dumplings (cooked balls of dough) with the chicken. Those dumplings
were good enough to eat by themselves. Maybe that’s what Grandma counted on.
I’ve seen Grandma
cook chicken and dumplings in a huge dishpan. Chicken and dumplings seemed to satisfy
the hunger of Grandma’s offspring, who tended to look more like dumplings than
some people on my father’s side of our family.
I can’t think
about chicken and dumplings without remembering a Thanksgiving Day I, as a
child, spent with my paternal grandparents. We gathered at the home of my
grandfather’s brother, Jay, and his wife, Nell. Their small house, sided with
asbestos shingles which were painted a pale, foliage-green color, sat beside a
flat, paved road in rural Taylors, S.C.
During the previous
summer, I had wandered into Great Uncle Jay’s sugarcane field, cut a section of
a plant and sucked sweetness from that fibrous stalk. The ancients defined sugarcane
as “reeds that produce honey without bees.”
Sugarcane stubs
dotted that gray-hued field by Thanksgiving morning, when my grandfather, Uncle
Jay and a few other male relatives, wearing faded coats and hats or caps,
cradled shotguns and traipsed over sprawling acres of Southern landscape. They returned
mid-morning with their harvested game – rabbits. Their wives prepared the main
course for our Thanksgiving meal: rabbit and dumplings.